Thursday, January 14, 2010

Some realities

There are a few harsh realities, even in paradise.

As I mentioned before there is very, very little food to find here. Yesterday, we walked up the road to the local store to see what we could buy in the way of snacks, we were sweating profusely by the time we got there. Elle and I went up and down the 3 barren aisles and left with just an orange soda. This is clearly not an island to snack on. I filled my suitcase crevices with diapers, fearing there would be none on the island. Lo and behold, nearly a WHOLE aisle was filled with nappies. Should've stashed away some snacks instead.

On the way back to the house, there is an Indian man who is always yelling very kindly, to "please, please come see what I'm selling". Usually, we politely decline. But, yesterday out of curiousity and hunger I crossed the street. He had some mangoes, a few papaya, and roti. Roti are tortilla type wrapped packages, filled with meat or veggies. I was about to buy a veggie curry Roti, which I was already very excited about eating, when I noticed the legion of ants that were working there way in and out of the packaging. I bought a mango and papaya and say goodbye. Today we saw the same man and he profusely thanked us, again and again and again. All for my $1.50.

When we do find food, it's good. Often very good. But, we tend to pay for it. Lunch one day cost us $75 US. In Fiji! That's ridiculous. So, we are attempting to hit more local places. Last night we ordered Indian takeout. Which in Fiji means, an Indian lady cooks it in her home and delivers it to you, tupperware, silver and all. The meal was delicious. Curries, rice, dahl soup, chutney and roti. All for $25US. Today sometime, she will come back to collect her dishes. How's that for being kind to the environment?

Another reality, bugs. Lots of bugs. Lots of annoying bugs and lots of big bugs.

Elle is covered in bites. We think they are mosquito bites, but aren't really sure. There is one under her eye that looks awful. She is also covered in a rash that looks like it may be from the sea. She is mostly unbothered by it though, fortunately. Liam, Justin and I are not affected.

Last night, I saw a cat chasing either an enormous cockroach or a small mouse of our house. I'm feeling very thankful for the cat, Nala, and also very disgusted by the sight.

We went out to the reef yesterday, intending to snorkel, but the weather turned and we came in. Later that night I read in a guidebook that the Northern Shores of Taveuni (where we are) are the most dangerous reefs to snorkel on, due to shark presence. "Shark attacks are not unknown in these waters, best to avoid snorkeling here." I asked Maureen, and she just waved it off, saying it's better to avoid the West side of the island, that is where they butcher the pigs. ICK!!! She says, "I snorkel out there all time time, when we see sharks we just 'tap tap tap' the water surface and they swim off". Aha! These are indeed shark infested waters.

The poverty here is obvious, it is very hard to find work, and what work people do find pays very, very little. And still, taxi drivers routinely try to not charge us if we aren't going far. We always insist, and they always try to refuse.

We walked Sonia home the other day and she asked me to come up and meet her mother. As we walked up to the house, I saw a baby (14 months old max) walking towards us holding a fishing spear. We had found this spear on the beach and given it to Raveet, Sonia's brother, before he was banned from the house. And here, a baby is brandishing it in our faces! We pad the corners of coffee tables in the US, but here they give babies very, very sharp fishing spears. I later asked Elle why she thought the baby was playing with the spear-- she said "because this is Fiji, and there is nothing". Yes, probably.

Sonia lives in a very small concrete apartment block. There are 4 or 5 apartments. Hers is just one room- maybe 16 by 16. She lives in it with her mother, father, big brother and a baby on the way. There was just one mattress thrown on the ground. Still, they all seem very happy. Sonia is always well dressed, clean, upbeat and brings a nutritious lunch with her each day when she plays with Elle. She doesn't seem to want for anything.

The Fijians are a warm, happy people despite whatever hardships they face. It's something to learn from.

Maybe seeing beauty each day helps, maybe it's the incredible starlit nights (never seen so many in my life), maybe it's the kava;)

4 comments:

  1. Very well written blog. Makes us all think that whatever problems we maybe facing are not so bad after all. Just siad that last night to Art when we were watching the Haitia stories, those poor people. Like the Fiji people must say "Beauty is in the eye of the beholder" and they have a beautiful island bugs, rats, mice , and all. They are happy people. Hope Elle's rash is getting better and her bites too. Love to all XOXOXO

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  2. The bugs and sharks sound a little scary, but I'm sure you'll be fine! It really is interesting to hear about how the locals are living there. What an eye opener. Stay safe and enjoy! xo

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  3. You'll remember these adventures forever!! Remind me to tell you about about the beach rats in Vietnam when you return! Totally freakish in teh moment but so cool years later.

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  4. When you know nothing else. You are happy with what you have. I know here we see and here so much people are jealous and keep trying to get what everyone else has. I guess they can really teach us a lesson...
    Take care and have a great time...

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